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Cliff edge and bright blue sea below

A road trip around Malta

March 2018

If the sound of hiring a car, and roaming around a place with an interesting past, divine food, and some stunning seaside cliff views is up your street, Malta is for you!

Quick Bites

Currency: EUR
Why to go: Rich history, good food, & beautiful scenery
Where to stay: Airbnbs with parking
How long to stay: 1-2 nights at each place
Transport: Hire a car, drive on the left
Don’t miss: Area around St. Peters Pool and Ras il-Fniek
Go with: A group of friends
Food: Famed for rabbit
Vibe: Easy going, slow pace

Why go to Malta

Mini natural pools at the ocean's edge
An amazing spot we found after getting lost on our way to St. Peter’s Pool (just northeast of St. Peter’s)

My cousins and I selected Malta for our first international trip as a group of three slightly disastrous humans. I won’t lie, it was chosen off the ‘Everywhere’ list of destinations on Skyscanner as it met our budget, none of us had ever been, and we were seeking some sun. However, having now experienced the islands in the archipelago, I am a firm fan. From one side of Malta to the other is less than an hour by car, making it perfect for a shorter trip that still feels very much complete. If the sound of hiring a car, and roaming around a place with an interesting past, divine food, and some stunning seaside cliff views is up your street, Malta is for you!

Where to visit in Malta

The Maltese archipelago consists of the islands of Malta (the largest), Gozo, and Comino (the smallest). Given time constraints, we opted to only visit Malta and Gozo stopping at various places on our way round with the car. Below is a selection of our top spots we found on offer during our Maltese road trip.

Sliema

A perched bird overlooking the walled city of Valletta
The walled city of Valletta

Sliema works as a perfect base for day visits to Valletta. It is cheaper to stay here overnight than Valletta itself and you get an awesome view of the city which you would not get from inside the walls. There is not too much to call out here in terms of sight seeing but we had the best food of the trip at a restaurant called Ta’ Kris which we could tell was top class due to all the local clientele. It’s a reasonably small place with hard worked staff, so don’t expect speed, but if you get yourself a booking you are really in for a treat. Rabbit is a Maltese specialty and the rabbit dishes here were super tasty!

Valletta

Quirky buildings with multicoloured windows around Valletta
Many of the buildings in Valletta have these quirky multicoloured windows

Valletta was gorgeous to walk around. The city is a unique mix, housing beautiful churches, quirky coloured apartments, and a spattering of some ‘hipster’ bars. It is the ultimate cool city with a laidback vibe packed with a serious historical punch. You want to give yourself time to get lost amongst the streets here but make sure to visit some of the museums to ensure you leave with an appreciation of everything the country has seen in its past. I recommend The Malta Experience for a short movie which explains the history and the War Memorial at the ocean end of the city for some awesome views of the forts surrounding Valletta. Finish your day here watching the sunset from the upper Barrakka Gardens when you are too tired to walk anymore.

A bar sign which reads: we have beer colder than your ex's heart
One of the great signs on offer for your viewing pleasure at the bars in Valletta

Gozo

Gozo has plenty to offer, so although we only spent one day and night here, I would recommend tacking on a day or two. We started our visit by taking in the megalithic Ġgantija temples to get an understanding of how ancient the land is.

Following our cultural visit of the day we headed to Marsalforn which considering it was March was quite empty. However, during high season a lot of tourists stay around here, particularly those looking to dive, as the town hosts a few diving shops. It was nice to walk around the dock area and I can definitely see the outdoor restaurant spaces packed in summer with tourists enjoying an Aperol Spritz or two.

Next we headed to the Azure Window and Blue Hole site. The Azure Window has actually collapsed now so you can’t see the arc structure which used to stand at this location. Either way this is a breathtaking area at the edge of the island of Gozo with cliffs a plenty to fulfil your sit, stare, and contemplate life needs.

A shot of a cliff and the Mediterranean sea bordering it
Captured whilst clambering around the rocks at the Blue Hole/Azure Window
Two women walking around flat cliffs with a view of the ocean behind
Visting the Azure Window in the morning and wandering around free of tourists
The cliffs at Gozo with the sea in front
The stunning cliffs near the Azure Window site

I recommend visiting Victoria at night. It is the main city on the island and boasts the stunning Ċittadella. At night the walls are lit up similarly to Valletta and it makes for a killer view. Walking around the place without other tourists made me feel like I was creeping around a castle in Dorne in Game of Thrones in the dead of night and I was all for it.

Mdina

Mdina is another of the incredible walled cities Malta has to offer. We started our visit here during the day getting lost around the city streets. At night, once again the city lit up which gave it that important castle feel. The streets are peppered with classy bars and restaurants, so although it is the old capital, you get the sense that people really socialise there rather than just treating it as a tourist destination.

Marsaxlokk

Maltese luzzu boats docked at port
Typical Maltese luzzu fishing boats docked at Marsaxlokk

Marsaxlokk is known as the best place to see the famous Maltese luzzu fishing boats. The boats are typically painted bright blue yellow and red with a pair of eyes on the bow. This small fishing village did not disappoint on the boat front and we had a stellar seafood lunch to boot.

The Mediterranean sea with a long cliffside in the distance
The view of Ras il-Fniek from the hidden private pools near St. Peter’s Pool

My favourite part of the whole trip was our hike from Marsaxlokk to the St. Peters Pool area. The walk is super nice, giving you a bird’s eye view of the village you leave behind from a path bordered by old beige walls, cacti, and yellow flowers. We actually took a wrong turn and happened to find the most beautiful place of the whole trip. We never made it to St. Peter’s Pool but found an area of multiple natural pools which were bordered by the Mediterranean, almost like natural infinity pools. There was no one around seeing as most tourist traffic heads to St. Peter’s, so it became our own little paradise. What made it was the view of the Ras il-Fniek cliffs to the left whilst we bathed!

How long to stay in Malta

Red and blue coloured benches parked in front of a port
Cute colourful benches we found at the waterfront on the walk from Sliema to Valletta

Malta is ideal for short trips because it is so small. Crossing the main island of Malta on it’s longest side takes less than 1 hour by road, so if you hire a car you have your independence and can check out as much of the country as you want. We stayed 6 days including our departure and arrival days and we squeezed so much in. I don’t feel like I missed out on anything. However, we did not visit Comino. If you have the luxury of time and want to see absolutely everything, give yourself a full 7-10 days and you will leave feeling like locals.

Transport in Malta

A path lined by yellow flowers with a small port village in the background
The view of Marsaxlokk from the hike towards St. Peter’s Pool

Malta does have a public bus system which many opt for to get from place A to B. Many also just visit Malta as a beach destination and spend most of their time in one spot. Our intention was to see as much of the island as we reasonably could and a road trip gave us the freedom to do that. If you have the time, I am sure the bus is cheaper, however, we didn’t want to find ourselves having to wait 1 hour after missing a bus (which would be typical of us). Also, be aware that in Malta you drive on the left hand side of the road!

Where to stay in Malta

A woman sleeping on the doorstep of a closed hotel title 'Hotel Ritz'
Us being high class and sleeping at the Ritz in Marsalforn because we are that boujee

Parking isn’t the easiest in Malta if you are not a confident driver. It is a small place so you can imagine it is a lot of parallel parking situations on small streets. Given the best way to see Malta is by hiring a car, I would recommend trying to secure Airbnbs with some parking space to make your life easier. That said, we predominantly used Booking.com to secure hotels and hostels at reasonable prices. In all honesty, the important thing here is proximity to where you are visiting as once you have arrived, the best thing to do is leave the car close to your accommodation and walk around given the size of the place.

A view of a small port and apartments in the background
The waterfront at St. Julian’s

Make the trip moments

A woman sat on a cliff's edge looking at the ocean below
The stunning cliffside view at the Azure Window/Blue Hole area on Gozo
  • My first trip with some of my favourite humans, being the disastrous triplet cousins we are
  • Screaming on our way to Sliema from the airport after getting volunteered to drive us as the one who is ‘used to’ driving on the left
  • The flashy lights around the churches all over Malta
  • The food at Ta’ Kris (R.I.P. the leftover pasta we forgot in the fridge)
  • Taking photos of us sleeping everywhere to curate a beautiful album for our parents
  • Falling asleep during The Malta Experience movie – I swear it was good but two thirds of us are pale and the sun hit us hard
  • So many cats, cats everywhere, cat sanctuaries in the middle of more than one Maltese town
  • Initiating our cousin into our sleep in the car habits in Gozo
  • Watching Black Panther in Victoria one evening just because (favourite Marvel film)
  • Doing everything last minute: renting a car, finding accommodation, you name it we did it
  • Loving Cisk beer and not loving Kinnie so much (acquired taste)
  • The ‘private’ natural pools near St. Peter’s Pool

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